Mount Shasta, snow-covered, loomed in the background. Stretched out before me, marshlands sparkled, and hundreds of white-faced ibis, Wilson’s phalaropes, black-necked stilts, and long-billed dowitchers brought the landscape alive as they twirled, probed, and pranced in pursuit of breakfast. Hundreds (maybe a thousand) red-winged blackbirds winged overhead. The site? Lower Klamath National Wildlife Refuge that straddles the Oregon-California border.